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@@byrdcity6490 FI interchiller is the brand

@lylegoodluck stays cool all the time. Highway cruising is where the ac system performs best

No sorry

@@TractionControlusa dang! Okay thanks friend

I used a sheet of insulating foam with an adhesive side. Cut the shapes needed to fit each side of the tank. Then sealed the gaps with black silicon to prevent condensation.

E85, cam, 16psi,DDP intake, 2" headers, Kong ported blower with 102tb. Id1300 inj. Stock bottom end. Car is pushing 860whp

The socket or the harness ?

Unfortunately the shop was closed last spring

I ran ID1050s for a while. Until I got above 800 and had to add an aux pump anyway then went with ID1300s which is what I'm currently running

@@TractionControlusa i’m wanting to do the install myself then take it to georgia to get tuned since alabama has no good tuners, do you think it would be ideal to put them in and drive like 3 hrs to them to do the tune or would u not risk that and just let them do the full install

@@ashtonpitts1941 you're referring to the pumps or the injectors?

You might want to check your dimmer switch on the left side of the dash. The dimmer switch brightens and dims the ambient lighting along with the gauges.

@@TractionControlusa am I tripping or is the ambient light supposed to go across the dashboard too?

@kmart014 no. The ambient lighting did not go across the the dash from factory. That's why we made a kit to make it do it.

@@TractionControlusa are you located in California? I would wanna get the mod but I wouldn’t know the first thing about installing it. Or can you recommend someone in socal to install it

@kmart014 I'm sorry we are located in Austin Texas, and unfortunately we closed our doors earlier this year

We actually stopped using this light pipe method about a year or so ago. We started using an updated method with better hardware for a cleaner and even look, however we closed shop back in 2/23. I will probably be releasing a video on how to build it yourself with the new hardware soon

@@TractionControlusa that sucks. I ordered 3 of the ice blue LEDs with connectors from GM. I'm starting a Audio/ lighting/ welding business in Pittsburgh Pa and I was actually going to see if you could be the source for some of the materials. Everyone here with Camaros can't wait to see what they look like. I have more than a dozen people looking for me to install this. I hate to hear that you guys shut it down. There's a ton of your stuff that I know I can sell/ install here. I wish you guys the best of luck and appreciate your impact on the Camaro aftermarket!

@billchambers6015 I would love to see this work continued. We found that the ice blue LEDs from gm that is used in the doors isn't bright enough to be used on the dash kit, we used a brighter set of SMDs for our doors and the dash kit when it used an LED for this reason, the company that made them has since gone out of business. If you would like to know the hardware we changed to feel free to reach out me at gen5concepts@gmail.com and I can provide you the list and what's needed for install.

@@TractionControlusa That would be great!! I appreciate you guys and we will stay in touch.

Our leds are brighter than gen5diy but lifting it up will definetly help. In our original kit (the one on the video) we used a FIRM adhesive weatherstripping about 1/2" thick. You should be able to find something similar at autozone or advance auto. Oreillys and Napa doesn't carry the same type of strip, theirs is more foamy, if that makes sense.

@@TractionControlusa Thank you, I will check tomorrow. I originally thought you guys were with gen5diy and the kit you were installing was from them. I didn’t realize I bought a different kit from yours tell after I received it unfortunately. I’m happy with it none the less. I really appreciate the quick reply though. The video was really helpful when I was installing this today. You guys are awesome!

@@AaronV_901 always happy to help.

If it's just the one side not working then either its unplugged inside the door or the led is blown and will need replaced. You'll need to pop the door panel off and check for voltage at the harness or at the led to verify. If you have voltage then replace the led.

@@TractionControlusa thanks man.

You have a good eye. The purpose of the added line was to "vent" the tank from pressure. When I first installed the tank the lid would randomly leak coolant, in an effort to avoid coolant leaking around the lid I installed a vent tube to an overflow canister until it could be fixed. Not long after I made this video I got with the tank manufacturer who sent me a resized oring for the lid. I removed the extra line and plugged the hole. There have been no leaks since. The brand of chiller I'm using is a modified version of FI interchiller.

They will support up to 750whp on e85 with the proper injectors and tuning. Above that you will lose pressure and need an Aux pump.

We used to be located in Waco yes. L&D Automotive is in waco, where this was filmed.

Sanding is a bad idea. The light does not pass through the paint, the light shines into the edge of the plastic and is reflected off of the black paint. This is why it is brighter on the silver panels vs the black. We used to make a brighter LED kit to remedy this issue..hence the purpose of the video. Unfortunately we no longer make them.

Chiller systems are not cheap, however any cooling mod isnt cheap. A good chiller setup will be around $2,000 . If your IATs are that high your car is pulling timing and you dont even know it. The car will feel sluggish until cooler weather comes in the fall. With a chiller you will have boost season all year round. It really is the BEST cooling option out there for anything who actually drives their car on the street.

these 2 pumps will support up to 750whp on e85 with the proper injectors and tuning. at 750 pressure will begin to lower, We installed a DW 320lh aux pump to remedy this issue. the aux pump coupled with these 2 pumps now produce 72psi at the rail all the way to 6500rpm on e85 making 860whp

I've done several sets of these so far. I always leave the oem valve in. I've heard reports of the new valves locking shut and popping Lines, so I don't use them.

There are wires labeled key 1 and key 2. Use the key 1 wire and connect it to the steering control wire. The correct wire color should be labeled in the instructions in the diagram section

None of them came with dash lighting from the factory. If it was there then someone put there. It's possible the less blew out, or the power or ground was interrupted. Hard to say who even made the kit that's there. You'll have to pull it out and start testing it. Or replace it

@@TractionControlusa Thank U for the info

The unit will need to be replaced. There is no repair for that hose.

The 13ich will mostly likely cover the vents or the hvac controls, or alittle of both. That size is pushing given the space

There was. We just closed up shop last month.

@@TractionControlusa aww dang, ok

Yes. If you search forums and groups you will see this happen. The fpcm needs tuned first and foremost. The pumps draw considerable more power than the factory pumps, the fpcm thinks there's a short and cuts the power, it will make you think you are losing pressure when in reality the issue is tune related. On a log the pressure will drop off a cliff , rather than a slow slope off. Make sure your tuner is tuning the fpcm correctly. Once that is done if you any further issues let me know as there is one more thing you can do.

@TractionControlusa I really appreciate the input. I'll let me my tuner know tomorrow. Thanks again

Depends on your boost level and how long you stay in it. I do mostly 1\4 racing with it. So in 1 pass itll never get over 100. It'll rise a out 40* then come down about 20* immediately. By the time you cruise back to the line it'll come down another 20 and be back to where you started before you hit the line. If you're on the street... Maybe 3 back to back pulls before I'd recommend letting off and cruising a bit.

Where can I buy it

Yes I ditched the exchanger. There is a valve that allows you to run both if you wish. I keep my AC on all the time, but I'm in Texas so my ac rarely gets turned off anyway..maybe for 2 months in the winter ..

@@donventura3844 I ditched the hx. I live in texas..the ac runs day and night year round already.

It comes with apple car play as well yes

Sorry I don't have an install video. You will need the "PAC audio dash kit" in order to install it. It comes with the wiring that will need preconnectee to the stereo pig tails to make it plug in play in the car. Pretty much the same as any aftermarket stereo. The back up camera in the 14 zl1 has an "rca style" connector that plugs into one of the 3 video input ports on the stereos harness.

and open or closed hood does it affects IAT temps with a chiller installed. This test was in no way ment to monitor engine temps. If you actually watched or listened the whole point was to see if it would affect the intercooler temps at all. Which it obviously it didn't. A lot of people out this stuff in their intercooler fluid and sweat it helps. You probably want to go argue with them.

@@TractionControlusa I see I see. That's a chiller 🤦‍♂️🤣, fair enough, I miss that part. I get what you're saying here... however, this product isn't meant for this type of a test. That's all I'm trying to point out here. It's like using a fork to cut food with...it can work, but it's not really it's true purpose. All it does is increase the surface area that water contacts surfaces to. In order to cool it needs a large surfaces like radiators, that are normally at or over 200⁰. It's not magically changing water into colder water via chemical reaction or etc. Far as I know a chiller is uses the AC to cool the water. And At 63⁰, there's less of a threshold here to cool. Meaning, hot cup of water at 180-220⁰ (radiator temps), cools at a higher rate than say... a cold cup of water at 63⁰. I didn't hear anything about the size of the intercooler you have, but I'd assume it lacks the same surface area as a radiator. Those are two huge factors, plus it being aided by AC, is all going dramatically lessen it's ability to work. I don't mean to be semantical, but...if you get how it is achieving what their claiming, this video isn't representative of proof it doesn't. I'm going to try my bottle in my weak ass radiator here soon 😆. Ps. Nice car, pss...I want a chiller now on my Z06! Thanks 🤑 lol.

@@MaxwellReviresco agreed. I didnt think it would do anything from the start. That's why I did the video. Lots of guys think it does and there's no arguing with them.

Yes. Anything you can do on an Android tablet you can do on this

I run my chiller all the way up to the burnout box. I do pretty short burnouts to clean my tires. I then shut my ac down. Make pull. Turn ac back on as I'm coasting at the end. I do all this just to be on the safe side.

The ecu auto shuts down the A/C system as soon as you go wide open throttle, because A/C compressors are not designed for higher rpms. This has been the standard in all manufacturers for years.

@@A2J_Tim you are correct, they do. However when you let off the throttle your engine can still have pretty high rpm ..this rpm is transfered to the ac compressor which raises refrigerant pressures. If you had a button in your car that would guarantee you would never throw a rod during a pull...would you take the extra second to press it ? .. im sure you would ;)

@@TractionControlusa in modern cars the Engine control module is in control of the A/C system and will not allow that compressor to engage above a specified rpm as per manufacturer programming so even if you let off and you are still above the acceptable rev count it will not re engage the A/C system. Technology is a wonderful thing, Some times..

@ORIANA250 again you are correct EXCEPT we aren't talking about abfactory ac system anymore, we're talking about a system with a chiller that has been added. The ac compressor on a 5th gen camaro(the car in the video) is set to shut off above 3500rpm. This is fine when working with the oem expansion valve. But can damage the chiller valve. The valve in the chiller is a home hvac tx valve that's been repurposed. Also these companies do NOT give you a specific fill weight for your refrigerant, which leads to many over and under fills.

Iat 2 doesn't seem to care what 1 is. Iat1 can get up to 150 at idle and iat2 is still sitting at 50(or whatever it got down to). Once you begin a pull iat1 will usually drop due to moving air flow, iat2 will rise , mine usually goes up about 35-40* per pull. So if it starts at 60 I'm at 100 iat2 at end of pull. Then I just pull around and the temps immediately start dropping again

The one beside the green wire as shown in the video

I have an rx8 , i use 30% prestone, i can mix it with cool max?

I use royal purple or water wetter in my RX8 and I live in Phoenix. She gets hot.